We ♥ Glendo

Jamie somehow managed to wriggle his way out of school for the day by begging me Ma and Da for a day off and so another day of brotherly bouldering beastliness was on the cards in the valley that just keeps giving ... Glendalough :) ...

Me on Austrian Clamp 6C

Education is important and all that, but the conditions were mint.  We did the usual warm up at the path and went straight up the hill to pick up were we left off last Saturday. On the warm up my shoe was coming off whilst heel hooking on Basecamp Traverse 6a, ''Time to purchase a new pair of rock shoes'' I thought. It was a cool and breezy morning, the rock was sticky and I felt well rested up and ready to go. I hopped on Austrian Clamp 6C, I had a good sequence from working it last week and after a while trying to get my heel to stick and my toe hook to stay put I crossed to the crimp and beasted the two remaining power moves and topped it out, nice ! Jamie had another go at The Fin ss 7A+, not much progress, hard problem but we think we may have figured out a way for short people to do it, time will tell ...

Shoes Seen Better Days

Next up I got back on Another Duffy Problem 6C+. What a class line !! If you like big powerful throw moves seek it out, it's lovely. I took me a while to start making the opening crux move, it's large and I found it a little reachy and when I finally got it I was convinced I had the problem wrapped up, but just like in the warm up my heel ripped off and my foot came out of my shoe and I was deposited back on the deck ... gutted I was. I taped up my shoe to my leg and shortly afterwards I latched the move again and saw the problem all the way through, delighted :) Lovely moves !!

Me Finally Latching The First Move On Another Duffy Problem 6C+

Next up Jamie had his eye on a dyno, B.B.E 7A, I absolutley love the name of this problem, it stands for Best Buzz Ever :) It's a small dyno backwards from two sidepulls to a crimpy notch on an arete, the jump is O.K but the swing to hold is wild as your legs arc in a giant semi circle. It looked awesome. Jamie was psyched. He tried it about 20 times and his hand got shredded proper ...

... he kept latching the notch and holding on for dear life only to fall off just at the peak of the swing. He figured out some ninja beta where during the massive cut loose situation he would bump his left hand up the arete, it worked and it allowed him to tame the mechanics that were spitting him off the stone, he threw his heel up, matched and followed the arete left to an easy mantel, wo hooo, first Glendo 7A, he was chuffed and thought it was one of the best dynos he had done to date :) Good work bro !!

Jamie Sending B.B.E 7A

I was already delighted with the days climbing, but I had a little energy left in the tank and so we headed over to The Cherry 7A to see if I am getting any stronger on it. There was progress made, sweet !! Previously I couldn't do the second move, the crux move for me, I just couldn't even throw for the crimp, it felt miles too hard for me, this time I could make the throw and missed the crimp by only an inch or so, psyched, I was jumping around as if I had just sent the problem because I know now it is only a matter of time (time and effort) before I will get it. It's a mad move where in a 60 degree roof I lay back on a pinch and a crimp and put my right foot above my hands and head and do a huge throw and cut loose out to a crimp on the left, it's gonna be an epic send when it goes and it will go :) ...

figured it out ...

... getting close :)

We were buzzin' on the walk out and talked about how lucky we were to have Glendo as our local spot and how sweet the season has been so far and that it is only still September. More dry weather on the way this weekend so mabye more Glendo action. Happy climbing folks and remember that technique is for sissies, stay square like a bear and beast it !! :)