Me on Another Duffy Problem 6C+
Hari, Jamie and meself had an eventful days bouldering in G-Lough today. It was back to being a little too hot but there was no stopping Hari the Austrian beast :) We warmed up quickly at the path area, Hari can't help himself when he's in Glendo, he's like a kid in a candy store, he's drawn to the scree and he disappears on exploration trips into the chaotic pile of potential new problems and he always comes back 10 minutes later excitedly saying ''Oh My God I saw a really nice line for a first ascent ...'' We warmed up and headed back to Another Duffy Problem 6C+, it's a sweet line and Hari was impressed with the big powerful opening move, once he figured out his beta he made light work of it, good start to the day. I am psyched to do this problem too but today I felt like a sack of spuds and I had elbow pains and generally felt weak from yesterdays exertions, I got stuck into everything I tried anyways in the hopes of getting a bit stronger and figuring out some moves on projects for when I come back with fresh muscles for the job.
Hari on The Fin ss 7A+
Next up we headed up the fin area as Jamie and Hari were keen to check it out as they had never been before. It's a lovely little area at the zig zags with great views down the valley and nice grass to sit upon and munch red pesto and Dubliner cheese sambos ... mmm. We stood in awe of the majestic Wonderland 8B and we all agreed it was one of the most impressive lines we had ever seen. Hari set to work on The Fin ss 7A+ and it took him only 3 attempts !! He practically did the first move static without his feet coming off, it's a full blown dyno to a sloper for me and J, after he latched the sloper he slapped up the arete and proceeded to throw every shred of technique he possessed out the window and muscle his way through the mantel, a very quick ascent indeed !! Jamie had a good session on it too, doing the stand start no bother and working hard to try to figure out the opening dyno, he continually got his hands right on the sloper but couldn't quite hang it yet, he's psyched to project it.
Jamie on The Fin ss dyno move
Jamie working The Fin ss 7A+
Hari spotted a nice unclimbed line just to the right and about 5 meters behind the fin boulder. It was a cool little worthwhile lowball like Quality Control, the only problem and the only reason it wasn't climbed before was because there was a big rock right in the way of the sit start, on further inspection Hari found out the rock would move and when it was rolled out of the way a sweet new problem was revealed. We cleaned it as best we could, chalked up the holds and worked out a nice sequence together and Hari sat down and did the first ascent, he was chuffed to do a new problem in Glendo and in a nice area not hidden away in some corner of the scree. It's a short and sweet problem with 4 moves and an easy top out, its a quite powerful and steep start with a sweet clamp move where you have to clamp your feet on both sides of a feature and hold the tension for a cross over move. It's a decent problem, I fell off the last hard move and I was sure I would do it but I ran out of steam. Good problem check it out Austrian Clamp 6C.
Hari on Austrian Clamp 6C
Me clamping with left foot and a drop knee toe hook on Austrian Clamp 6C (Warface Optional)
Me on Austrian Clamp 6C
The midge presence was strong, I can't wait for the appaling detestable scourge to just hurry up and die a cold frosty death !! After an hour of itching and scratching we called it a day and saddled up for the hike out. I strolled out hungry for food and hungry to get back to Glendo fresh to send both the problems I flailed on all day. A good day all in all and Hari's second last weekend in Ireland, so hopefully I will get to climb with him again next weekend if the weather stays dry. Happy climbing folks, beast it ... beast life !!
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