More Burren Battles

Headed back down to Co. Clare this weekend with Jamie and the whippersnappers, who were psyched for their first taste of Doolin.  There was bad weather forecast but it looked good for Friday eve and early Saturday morning.  Two bouldering mats, four lads and loads of camping gear is far too big of a load for my little jam jar, so I strapped two of the mats onto the roof !! The wind resistance made the normally economical Yaris absolutely chomp through the petroleum ... way more space necessary for these trips,I seriously want / need a camper van.

Fully Laden Jam Jar

We made it to Doolin in good time for an evening session, the weather was fine, nice, warm and overcast.  We quickly set our tents up and made a bee-line for the bouldering.  The tide was in and the surf was crashing off the rocks pairing misty spray with the breeze.  The whippersnappers were impressed with the beauty of The Burren and they got down to business straight away warming up at the basecamp area on some nice crack lines and enjoying the moves on Monkey Bars 5 and their first acquaintances with limestone.  I warmed up and hopped on my nemesis problem The Ramp 6B+ for my customary ass whoopin', four sessions on it so far with no joy, this time however vicory was mine, my skin was in good condition so the moves weren't sore.  I concentrated on nothing but keeping my heel in the dish whilst my hands followed the groove to the jug and it stuck for me this time round :) This problem feels lovely when your skin is in good nick but it feels like putting your hands in a blender full of vinegar when your tips are wearing thin, as Adam soon found out.  He had a session on it, making decent progress until his pads could take no more.

Adam on The Ramp 6B+

The lads headed over to have a go of Big Foot 6a+.  They were having good craic on it and getting close to sending it but the ground was so wet the bouldering mats were quickly soaked through and they couldn't step anywhere without their feet getting wet and they couldn't do the sit start without dampening the buttocks region.  A small sweeping brush would be a handy tool for brushing the water from the pock-mark puddles around this part of the area.

Daragh on Big Foot 6A+

Jamie and I went up to have a go at Solid Works 7A, its a heel hook lip traverse with some small holds with big deadpoints between them into a a strenuous mantle. Its a nice problem perched in a nice position on top of  a small cliff and its tough. I quickly figured out the traverse moves but I couldn't get near the mantle, its a heel hook rockover with a lockoff on a pinchy hold in your left hand, I slapped up the slabby face searching for an edge to pull on and ripped a flapper right in the center of my index finger pad. Jamie fought his way up the mantle and we all cheered as we knew it would go for him now, but he ran out of light as we were benighted and headed back to the car on the far side of twilight. After a victory beer I slept like a baby.

Me On Solid Works 7A

The rain was coming up from the south and due to arrive in Doolin at midday so our plan was to get up mad early and hit the rock for a full session before the downpour.  We got up and 5:30, ate pancakes and fruit for breakfast and hit the rock straight after, it was a beautiful morning, but our plans were scuppered by a great evil presence ... the bastard midge.  There was no sign of a sea-breeze and the ruthless demons descended upon us and feasted on our faces, our hands, behind our ears, our legs ... jaysus we were miserable :( Jamie covered up and lay on the ground groaning intermittantly, Daragh soon followed his lead, Adam and I attempted to stay positive and climb through it, it was nasty, Adam tried The Ramp again but his skin refused, I suggested he try Sleepy Hollow 6C as I found it easier and I thought it would suit his style, after a battle figuring out the sequence he made it to the easy top-out then lost his cool, got too excited and fell off.  Soon after this he got to the top again, maintained composure and sent it, his first 6C, go on ya beast ya and it made my morning as it seemed nothing positive was going to come out of it.

Bastards

Later on I had a half hearted go at Hider 7A, I wasn't feeling it after spending the whole week lying in bed, taking anti-inflammatories and resting my back, I had another go at Solid Works 7A with the same result, I couldn't turn the mantle, ''at least I got to climb this weekend and at least I finally did The Ramp'' I thought to meself as I felt a little disappointed.  Jamie came back to life after the midge cleared up around 10:30.  He quickly warmed up and headed straight for Solid Works, he had the top-out dialled in and he nailed it, little beast, nice work bro :) A few weeks training and a return trip to Doolin and we'll see what unfolds. In the mean time I might check out the bouldering potential on the Wicklow Coast as its a little closer to home. Happy climbing folks :)