Headed up to Glendasan today with my little brothling, I was knackered from a gravity session yesterday so I wasn't climbing as I was saving myself for a session in Glendalough on sunday, but him being a young lad, was full of beans. He was super excited to try the wonder dyno problem So It Goes, his first attempt at trying a 6C. It spat rain as we trudged up the steep hill,but we found ourselves at the bottom of a bone dry boulder and Jamies eye's were popping out of his head when he got a close up look at the line. It's a peach of a problem, with large footholds in high supply you take a nice crimp rail with both hands, take a staggered foot stance, pull yourself close to the wall, rock your weight onto your left foot and explode upwards towards a flatty ledge a great distance away from your starting handhold. In short it's beast, a beautiful technical dyno.
Jamie warmed up doing the mantle problem to the left and quickly hopped on the dyno. He did it in about ten goes and came back down to do it again for the cameras, beast !! After this his attentions turned to a project which goes from the same starting holds way right to jugs on the far edge of the boulder. He figured out a wicked sequence, two quick steps and a mad little dyno, he latched the jug and squeezed for dear life, ''He fuckin' has it'' I thought, but to both our surprises there was strange and unexpected mechanics at work, whilst squeezing as hard as he could Jamie went almost completely horizontal to the ground and flew off the handle towards a gully, a well placed mat and spotter saved the day but he took a fierce thump when he hit the deck !! We decided not to try again without 4 pads and a couple more spotters. Well done J I am well proud of you bro, there will be no stoppin' ya in Albarracin !! Here is a vid of the ascent, enjoy...
Good work Jamie. When Ped did it I think he went for the higher hand hold not sure why, maybe he couldn't hold the lower one? I 'm pretty sure Michael has done the project to the right. Though he hasn't submitted it to the new problem database. I have taken a similar fall after latching the pinchy jug...
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