Repetitive Strain ... Elbow Pain

I've been indoor bouldering loads for the last 2 and a half weeks. Since Gravity opened I started climbing 2 days on 1 day off, except when I got really tired I took 2 days off. I have been concentrating on steep powerful problems and I have been climbing for 4 hrs at a time. After 2 weeks of that I started getting aching pain on the inside of my elbows, mostly in my right arm. I took a 3 days rest and came back with a really good session last friday, I felt strong and that I was moving well and the elbow pain was gone. So I took another day off before climbing this evening. I expected the elbow pain to still be gone but it returned again tonight. I have been totally over training and I know it. It's time to sort it out or I'll end up with a long term elbow problem. So less sessions, less steep stuff and shorter sessions from now on, finish fresh instead of thrashing myself. I know these things already .. but it's hard to hold back in the Gravity Centre !!

Magic Elbow Fixing Contraption



I checked around on the net and I think I have sussed out that I have what's termed as ''Golfer's Elbow'' which is on the inside of the elbows, as opposed to ''Tennis Elbow'' which occurs on the outside. I found a great write up about it on UKC ... http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614  ... so hopefully the rehab exercise in this article and a little more rest and sensible training decisions will sort out my elbow issue before it becomes a full blown problem ... but holy shit I am absolutely loving the bouldering at the moment and wish I could climb every feckin' day :)