Friday, August 19, 2011

Dalkey Evening Session

I haven't managed to blog for a wee while, so there is a few days climbing to report. A little while back I had a session in Dalkey on a fine summer evening. I had fun being out and about but a shit days climbing as my ankles are beginning to feel the effects of the summers non stop trad adventures. I asked for a rescue rope to be lowered down to me on a VS Helios, I was about 10 ft above my one and only piece of protection, I had just mantled an irreversible move to a ledge expecting to find a nice piece of gear, to my dismay the only gear placement available was a borehole which would have taken a tricam nicely only I had left my tricam at home !! I looked up and the next bit of pro available which was a rusty aul peg that looked like it had beeen there since The Beatles were in the charts and it was another 10 ft of climbing away which would have placed me well in to the ground fall zone. I didn't freak out, I just made a decision that I wasn't prepared or interested in climbing any further. Ming threw down a rope and and all was well ... I guess I am not up for that level of risk anymore, I used to solo VS onsight, I am nowhere near that headspace anymore since the accident, I have gotten some sense knocked in to me.
Crazy Dude On Astrodog E2
After this I followed Ming up  a fine ascent of a testing thin crack line called Maricon E3, a good job by Ming, it's nails hard, I was nowhere near seconding it clean. Jonny Lennon arrived and hopped straight on an E3 for a warm up, Moasochist, an evil micro crack on an easy angled slab, extremely technical and very falloffable, he slipped of at the crux a few times onto a good mini wire before giving up. After this Martin arrived and then James showed up. Some crazy dude was giving Astrodog E2 a go, it's a savage looking line, nice and long and steep, a climb I deffo have my eye on for the future. He fought his way to the ledge rest and then burst into song belting out a passionate rendition of ''Walking In Memphis''. Mabye it was a relaxation technique of his, it was very entertaining and it worked, he topped out just before the rains came down heavy out of nowhere and I legged it home.

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