Rathlin Island and Scotland Visible in the Distance
Kev picked me up in Naas and we grabbed Martin from Maynooth and we hit the motorways heading North with great expectations for an adventurous weekend. We set up camp in the farmers field, a pleasant little camp site only about 15 minutes walk from the crag. We met up with Kat who had been climbing there since thursday and she was exhausted already from the exertions of climbing her 1st E1 Fath Mo Bhuartha (nice job Kat) along with many others. We had a couple of beers and a laugh and were joined by James and Joe for a bit of craic.
Me on The Black Thief VS
The next morning we rose early, ate a great big breakfeast, Valdas arrived and we headed for the crag. A quality days climbing ensued. I top roped The Fence VS for a warm up and got it clean, it's a great climb with more jamming technique required than it's neighbour The Black Thief. Last time I was in Fairhead I got schooled in the art form of jamming and found it very difficult. This time I embraced the jams and I had a great tme as I began to find them more and more secure. Feeling pretty warm and ready I hopped on and led The Black Thief, it was a long, engaging and thoughful lead, I enjoyed every second of it, it's a super climb !! After this we had a delicios lunch, Valdas brought loads of smoked bacon and sausage from Lithuania and dished it out to everyone. With bellies full we abbed in for more action.
Martin In The Zone On Midnight Cruiser E1
Martin led a cool route named Call Me Judge HVS, it started with some chimneying, then an overhang surmounted by nasty physical jamming and then on to easier enjoyable ground above. I followed him up this and I had a great battle and got it clean. Next up was Kev's turn for a lead so he hopped on Railroad E1. He gave it his best shot, it was a valliant effort and he came within one move of victory only to back off the crux through the roof near the top after trying it a couple of times. Next time dude. At this stage I was already knackered and seconded the route with a few takes at the start due to exhaustion, I got a little bit of flow at least on the route getting it clean from half way to the top right through the 'crux' at the roof which felt a lot easier to me than the climbing at the beginning. That was the end for me I was worn out and could climb no more, I was delighted after having a great day at 'The Head'.
Martin Just About To Top Out Midnight Cruiser
The lads had one more route in them and Martin hopped on a long imposing pitch of climbing called Midnight Cruiser E1. He showed big cajones and fought his way to the top, a great climbing performance and his second E1 ever in the bag, good work dude. We were all knackered at the end of day. Back at camp we had a victory beer, ate dinner and then we all needed bed by 11:30 and no one rose the next day until 9. My muscles were stiff as a poker from the previous day. We had an easy chilled out day, we got on the multi pitch route Girona VS. It was a great way to finish off the weekend, 2 fine pitches and a different style from the straight up cracks at the Prow Area we had been concentrating on. I can't wait for my next trip up to Fairhead, hopefully it won't be too far away !! Happy climbing folks :)
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