Friday, November 2, 2012

Cold Toes and Big Throws

There has been a bit of a lull in the outdoor action for the last while but I went down to Glendalough the last two days with J.  The granite is like velcro at the moment, tis fierce cold with the arctic air swirling all about.  Great friction but bleeding feezing feet !! I had to keep putting my socks and boots back on and going for a walk every 40 minutes or so to keep the gangrene at bay.  Before I tell ya what happened I have to report a couple of days I had a few weeks ago but didn't blog about as I was struck down with a bout of laziness ...
Berni on Leftism 7C+
Managed one more day with Hari and Berni before they flew home to Austria.  I got to Glendo early warmed up and hopped on my new proj 2.4 Pascals 7B/+, I had a good session on it sending the stand start which is 6C, the moves were brilliant and it didn't take me too long, ''Good start'' I thought, I tried a few more moves but they all felt nails. I have been working the sitter ever since.  After this the lads arrived and we headed over to Big Jane with 4 mats as the austrains were keen to get up on Rythm and Stealth 7A, a great line, highball and with a scary two-tiered rocky landing.  Berni sussed out a sequence from the ground and flashed it no bother, strong lad, impressive to see, Hari gave it a good battle but couldn't get it to go for him.  Berni also tried the sitter Leftism 7C+, amazing looking link-up, he thought it would take to long time to climb and he had only one day left so he settled for a shot at The Groove ss 7A+ which he beasted after we sussed out a nice sequence.  Awesome walls opened and Jamie and I were straight down as soon as we could to check it out, its LARGE and has some good bouldering especially the sweet prow feature, the routes walls are extensive and very impressive !!
Berni on Rythm And Stealth 7A

Me on the Quality Prow Feature in Awesome Walls
On another day Jamie Adam and meself had a sweet night bouldering session, Adam made tidy work of Black Art 6C, he was well chuffed and thought it was a lovely line, Jamie and I tried some moves on Pascals and began trying to piece the intricate sequence together, another day I was stuck working, Jamie and Adam went to Glendo and had a good aul session for themselves, Jamie beasted Pokery 6C and had a good work session on Afro Left 7A+ ... so that brings us back up to the present and the shennanigans of the last two days in Glendo ...
Me on 2.4 Pascals 7B/+
Weather coming from the north with crisp cool air was the forecast and so Jamie and I were Glendo bound once again, we warmed up and had a work session on Pascals, we concentrated on trying to figure out which beta to use for the first two moves, we tried every contortion of a position before settling on going to the undercling with the left hand cross through and then straight up to the crimp, its a really tough move, the crux move, Jamie nearly did it, I can make a move but I am still a fair way off reaching the crimp, it was colder than a witches tit and it started to lash rain so we had to bail home slightly early.
J-Mo fighting hard on Afro Left 7A+
Today was a beautiful Winters day, blue sky, cold temps and blustery. I had a great session on Pascals finally figuring out all the beta that I am gonna use, I found a lovely neat sequence and I only have one move  I havent done yet, I am PSYCHED for this one, gonna work me arse off for it.  Jamie got back on Afro Left, he can do the moves from the slopers through the rock over all the way to the top, now only the opening dyno stands in his way, he gave it a few great tries and almost latched the huge throw once or twice. It started to hailstone so we hid it out in a cave, took a rest and murdered ham, cheese and green pesto sambos on batch bread. After this we both had a shot of The Fuckin' Original 7A, previously we had been unable to lift off the ground, this time we could get up slap the sloper and go for the jug, Jamie latched the jug ! alas he fell off trying to go for the match, we both find the top out o.k so I think it will go soon ... no sends but good progress on all fronts !! Happy climbing folks and remember when in doubt dyno :)

No comments:

Post a Comment