Albarracin 2012, Part 1

What a trip !! Day one in Albarracin and this was my facebook status ... ''Sun, sandstone, new buddies, first 7A, beer, wine, slackline and fajitas, Albarracin trip is off to a cracker :)'' ... I couldn't have asked for a better start to the trip and we couldn't have gotten any better weather, it was gorgeous.  We got up early in the morning for good friction, there was frost on the grass and the friction was mint in the morning sun until it became to hot for climbing and perfect temperatures for lazing in the sunhine.  I did a 7A called Empotration, it's a beautiful finger groove in a slightly overhanging face with a scrunched up hand-jam and crimp sit start, I had worked the stand start last year so after a few attempts to nail the sitter I put it together and stood proud at the top of the boulder bathe in glory and golden sunlight

After a little struggle adapting to the new rock type Jamie climbed a lovely 6c on the first day, after this he would grow in poise and confidence as the trip went on, the force is strong in this one.  Day 2 was a trip to Sector Techos under the beating sun.  I climbed a stunning line called Caverna 6C+, I had worked out all the moves on my last day back in October and I was pleasantly surprised at how easily it came together this year, Gravity training paying off.  Especially for Jamie who nailed Trampoline 6C and entertained us all by beasting his first 7A ever, a massive scary dyno called Vuelo Sin Motor, it was deadly looking and we all cheered as he topped out. We made a sweet HD movie of the trip and I am currently trying to upload it to youtube or vimeo so I will have it up soon.

Day 3 was a rest day for me, patience was required, I didn't want to thrash myself, the lads just carried on regardless and had a great day at Sector Techos again.  All their fingers were tired so we found a big bunch of dynos which were all big jug to jug jumps and so they jumped ... all day long !! Daragh was psyched and after a bottle of San Miguel for courage he shot his way up to latch his first ever 6B, nice work dude.  Eoin also latched it and it too was his first 6b.  Well chuffed and having discovered his talent for dyno's he promptly beasted another one, a 6c called Lancelot, great stuff altogether !! Jamie ripped a large flapper and decided a couple of days rest was in order.  I was feeling great the next day and so began the battle of the trip for me, I settled into a siege on the problem Techo Don Pepo 7A, the siege would last for 5 sessions.  It's the best problem I have ever done, a huge roof, horizontal with breaks, pockets and pinches, 10 to 12 foot long, a most beastly adversary !! On the first day I figured out all the moves individually and I could link it to the half way point. I was happy with that.

Tech Don Pepo 7A, Classic

The next day the rains came and the weather changed to cold and wet for a few days.  Luckily in Albarracin the roofs are massive and you can't get rained off, there is always some amazing problems staying dry under a sanstone umberella. We all had a go on Techo Don Pepo, the lads had a good session on it, I went backwards on it, as my fingers were wrecked from squeezing the pinch and trying to do the dynamic move from the stacked 3 finger pocket to the crimp, I was demoralised and knew I needed a rest day before getting back on it.