Thursday, April 26, 2012

Albarracin 2012 part 3




After a few days the rains ceased. During the wet period Daragh had been disappointed that a 6C he was eyeing up was soaked and unclimable, luckily however he found a sweet 6B roof, Obra De Arte, to work on which would prove to be the battle of the trip for him and provide some great entertainment for us as he fought hard, roared out with frustrtion and finally power screamed his way to glory. A beautiful, golden orange prow and a  great long, steep roof climb for a young lad only climbing for 6 months, good work man !!
Daragh on Obra De Arte 6B
I was getting a little frustrated working the same problem over and over again and I began thinking about all the mileage and other gems in the forest that I could be having fun on, so I decided to check out sector Aeroline for a change of scenery and for some sweet milage. It's a lovely little area with great climbs at all grades. It felt great to have the sun upon our backs again, and I felt great on the rock. After a fun warm-up Daragh climbed a nice powerful 6B, I climbed a 7A called Zarzamora which I tried for 2 session s last year, I couldn't hit the first move which is a little deadpoint / dyno to an angled sloper rail.  This year it felt easy for me, now all I needed was the balls to do the slightly scary top out, after bailing a few times I found a better sequence and I used a double palm down move and threw my weight foward onto the slab and topped it out. I found another sweet 7a, a nice steep line starting from a hueco hold in a roof into slopey slaps and heel hookery, I burgled some beta from a Spannish dude and then topped that one out too.
Jamie on Campus 6C, Sector Aeroline
Having stisfied my thirst for mileage, I was brimming with confidence and still had plenty of energy yet to burn ... '' Lets go over to Techo Don Pepo lads, I'm goin' for the hat-trick'' Across the road we went to the immaculate roof. I hopped straight on and gave it 3 of the best goes I could muster. I gave it everything I had, I made it through the crux, held a vicious swing at the lip because I didn't have the body tension to keep my heel in place, I let out a mighty scream, I was in full on warrior mode and I was only 2 moves from glory, I scratched and scrambled my way to the very last move !! Alas, me arms were truly and deeply pumped, I couldn't do it, they unfurled on me and to Jamie's disbelief I fell off on to me arse. Progress is progress I was happy with that.

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