Friday, April 20, 2012

Albarracin 2012 part 2

... After the session on Techo Don Pepo everybodies fingers were aching and the rain was falling in sheets, so a drinking session and a rest day were on the cards. We met a great bunch of German lads, Christain, Marco and Flo, they invited us to dinner and cooked up a beastly bolognese, we ate like kings and there was much merriment. I don't know what is in the water over there in Germany, but these lads were all above 6 ft tall and crush 7B+ or more, legends, really nice guys.

We woke on the next climbing day to find more cold and drizzle, spirits however stayed nice and dry and we set off with high hopes for sending Tech Don Pepo7A.  It was a great day's bouldering and battling, I beat my high point by making it through the crux in the roof and putting one hand on the lip, I was happy with some progress after goinjg backwards on the problem last session. Eoin was fighting like a wild, deranged beast and he too made it to the lip.  Jamie was in exceptional  form this day, he cruised the roof and topped out with the rain splashing on his face, he was just getting warmed up !!
Talkin' Beta Under Techo Don Pepo Roof

We packed up efforts after a couple of hours beasting under the roof, tendons could take no more. We decided to go back to Sector Techos as this area has a wealth of climbing which also stays dry in even prolonged, torrential rain.  I spotted a 7C dyno called O'dinamismo a few days earlier and the moment I saw it I knew Jamie could do it.  It's a second generation Dyno, not one but two jumps up the wall, probably 8ft or so handhold to handhold. A wonderful co-ordination and speed required to send this line. I taught Jamie how to do second generation dynos in Naas climbing wall when he was a small and wirey 12 years old and I had already seen Jamie do a bigger second generation in the gravity center, I had no doubts that he would get up there and latch it. He FOOKIN' BEASTED IT !! Nice one bruv !! Now he is mad to go to Font and do Rainbow Rocket.


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