Monday, June 27, 2011

Tranquility and Adrenalin

I had the perfect trad climbing day in Glendalough yesterday. I hit the magic valley mad early with Pat. On the drive in I was treated to beautiful sun rise over the mountains. Pink and orange clouds glowed hovering over darkened ridges and slope outlines. The walk down by the lake was stunning, the gullies and steep hillside across the water were illuminated by the yellow morning light and the lakes new residents three pure white swans, bobbing gracefully amongst the reeds near the lake shore gave the space and time a tranquil feel.
Purrrrty
I kept that sweet feeling going all day long. After a rough slog up the hill to the base of the crag we hit the main face straight away. My mission for the day was to lead Prelude Nightmare VS, so I hopped straight on it.
The Main Face
Prelude Nightmare is a super, fun and meandering line taking in lovely slab climbing, stemming corners and slightly overhanging cracks, the moves are unforgettable classics and the Glendo granite is immaculate. I took my time enjoying every single move, the heat of the sun and the views down to the glaciated valley below.
Me On Prelude Nightmare
On the abseil down I met a gang of the savage craic climbers posse doing what they do best ... having a laugh scurrying up rocks !! We had a chat and teased Pat over the lump on his forehead, whilst violently trying to dislodge a nut from a crack on Prelude Nightmare he managed to belt himself in the face with it causing a humongus pointy bump to appear immeadiately on his forehead like a character from a cartoon. ''What size nut was it ??'' ...''Size 27 by the looks of it haha''
Pats Bump
                                                 
Unknown Climber Running Amok
Back down to the base of the crag we went for a sambo and coffee where we met with Kev and Jonny for lunch and a chat. The crag was absolutely packed out of it. I have never seen so many people there at once almost every climb on the main face was occuppied with eager happy climbers. Ming was tearing it up making a fine ascent of Spillkin Ridge E3, fair play, he was delighted.
 Ming Nearing The Finish Line On Spillkin Ridge E3
Pat and Jonny went home so I hooked up with Kev and I followed him up a quality 2 pitch line called Scimitar Crack HVS. It's a savage quartz vein which curves it's way along slashing through the main face to join the finish to Prelude Nightmare. Kev was cool as an E.Coli free cucumber as he beasted his way through the intimidating crux only protected by an ancient looking peg. Lovely climb, the day was heating up I was sweating up a storm seconding it.
Kev Stepping Out Right For The Second Pitch Of Scimitar Crack
To finish off a great day we did Cracks In The Garden Of Eden VS. An awesome crack climb, we both thought it was the hardest climb of the day, we were tired and starving and hadn't drank enough water at all during the day. Kev led it, I would love to lead it soon. I think it was the 1st day I climbed without holding back or thinking about my injured finger, so it must be on the mend :) All in all it was a quality summers day trad climbing, the kind that drains the muscles but recharges the soul !! Happy climbing folks

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