I headed down to Doolin for the weekned to kick start the summer bouldering season and what a weekend it was !! Gorgeous weather and exquisite bouldering on sun drenched limestone blocks. On the walk in there was great views all the way to The Twelve Bens and Killary Harbour and of course the Aran Islands.
I spent two days doing as much mileage as possible. The climbing over in Doolin is seriously fingery, I totally blew my warm up on fingery problems on Kostya's Wall. I spent a while trying a lovely steep line The Ramp 6b+, I worked it up to 3/4's height but called a halt to the siege because a couple of the holds were so sharp they had pierced my skin in a few places and caused a flapper. It's a brilliant problem and I am pretty sure it will go on the next visit. I worked another lovely 6b on Kostya's Wall, a mad fingery sit start called pocket, strenuous and technical, I got to the last move but this problem was really sharp too and I was already bleeding and I still had a full day and a half of climbing to go so I left it for another day too.
The problem of the weekend for me was a beautiful lip traverse called Broken 6b on a sweet boulder which is perched right on the edge of the cliff. It looks as though a truly gigantic wave some time in the past lifted this heavy boulder up and deposited it on the cliff's edge. It's a class boulder with 2 quality 7a's on it too. I had great craic working this problem and figuring out all the moves, by the time I had the moves worked out I was knackered but I still managed to get within one move of the bomber jugs and top out. I am really psyched about getting back to Doolin and getting all three of these 6b's which have defeated me for now !!
The walk out in the evening provided a lovely sunset over the islands. Pat, Fiachra and meself went for some pints and to soak up some of the Doolin pub atmosphere and trad music. Great weekend, I am stiff, burnt and my skin is shredded but I can't wait to get back to Doolin :)
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