Monday, January 24, 2011
Less is More
Who would have thunk it ? Less is more ... way more :) I have been climbing less than I normally do, Every second day,so that's 4 or 3 days per week instead of 5 and I have stopped climbing 2 days in a row. To keep meself busy I have been doing 4 2hr long gym sessions a week in between climbing. The results of this tweak to my training plan have been amazing, I feel stronger than ever and I think I put my 1st 6c up in the Co op. I can't wait to get out on some real boulders now soon and see how how I am getting on. Progress feels great but some how to me anyways it doesn't count unless I transfer it to real rock. Now I just need the frosty coating on the top of the Glendalough boulders to go away so I can hop on Chillax and finally get it done ... Oh the waiting game !! I shall report back soon ...
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This sounds very like a suggestion you got from some no doubt brilliant person in Siurana last year :P
ReplyDeleteKeep up the good work!
Haha I remember that, it took me until nearly christmas to put it into practice, I didn't want to believe you :)
ReplyDeleteGood for you! - You're probably also seeing benefits just from varying your climbing/training - stimulating the body differently gives much better responses than teh same week-in/week-out (or year-in/year-out).
ReplyDeleteIt's especially important if you're only bouldering. Strength work means more rest - especially for those fingers to develop. Just make sure that when you are at the wall, that you give 110% - make the time training count!
If it helps, Nige, who won the Brit Bouldering Champs last year was only training three days a week for the year prior......
Route climbing less so, as there's a big focus on raw stamina so lots of regular, easier-difficulty climbing is the requirement.
Consider a week or two of stamina just before the summer to get your arms ready for routes.
Thanks Neal, I am going to Thailand in 4 weeks so I was planning stamina work only starting this week to get ready for the routes ... hopefully I haven't left it too late, how much stamina can you gain in 4 hard weeks of training ? How many days of training a week ? I am going to go for 6, is this overkill ?? Any other tips for stamina training would be greatly appreciated, Cheers dude
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