Martinez Geared Up and Psyched
Me Working Body Hammer 7B
My good buddy Martin was over from Colombia for a visit and as is customary we hatched a plan for a climbing trip together. Last time a year and a half ago we went to Fairhead, this year we met in Doolin for a bit o'bouldering and craic !! I was dead keen to get on Body Hammer 7B and give it good go, the conditions were a bit shit, there was spray from the waves pummelling the rocks wetting all the holds but it was still just about climbable and I got stuck in ...
Opening move on Body Hammer
... Body Hammer is a fine problem, thankfully the holds are not as sharp as I had expected and it doesn't shred your skin too bad, the movement is sweet and its a hard fight whilst you try to stay relaxed and technical across the steep face. Its fingery with small footholds all the way. There are some nice flag movements into a series of drop down moves whilst laybacking your way in reverse along the groove of The Ramp 6B+ and then a vicious powerful crux move which is crimpy and shouldery to link into Sleepy Hollow 6C. I figured out and did all the moves and the crux and was soon onto send goes, psyched !! I made it all the way from the start to the crux and threw for the crimp and tickled it, nowhere near enough power left to hold it, its gonna be a mighty battle and hard link up, I was delighted with having all the moves done in one session, especially considering all the footholds and the crux hold were slimey, afterwards I was exhausted and I decided that the name Body Hammer was quite befitting ...
Sweet Moves
Martin On Sleepy Hollow 6C
... Martin spent the two days locked in combat with Sleepy Hollow 6C, it would be his first of the grade and he was fully committed throwing himself at the rock and digging deep. He spent a long time formulating a sequence and in the end it was a smart method which added extra hand and foot placements but eliminated all power moves and lock offs. With aching muscles and bloodied hands he summoned up all his remaining energy and stitched his sequence together and simultaneously broke through the pain and the 6C barrier, I was screaming at him, he wouldn't let go, he whooped with joy whilst topping out, happy days :) We met some great people in the hostel, a bunch of germans including Amiee who also climbs and a californian Bret, we went for pints, a chat and trad music, Amiee and Bret came with us to the boulders on the second day and they thought it was a beautiful spot.
Martin Stylin' Sleepy Hollow
Amiee Enjoying Some Irish Rock
Somehow the good weather just keeps on coming, today I was in work but J and Adam had a trip to Glendalough. Adam got back on Austrian Clamp 6b+, a popular little problem nowadays, he had one session on it before and couldn't get it to go, this time round he settled his beta and the score by topping the lovely little gem out...
Adam on Austrian Clamp 6B+
... Jamie and Adam also sieged The Groove 7A+, Jamie tried it before and was getting closer and closer, this time round Adam made great progress on it and Jamie fell off on the cross through move 8 times before finally sticking the pinch, completely forgetting his sequence but holding it together and improvising his way to the top, he was delighted !! A most beastly send bro well done :) In three weeks we leave for Albarracin 2013, we feel ready and motivated for sunshine, chorizo, cerveza and large steep objects ... needless to say we can't bleedin' wait !! Happy Climbing Folks
Jamie Pulling Hard on The Groove 7A+
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